AUGUST 2021 FEATURED WINES
WINE ONE: BROC CELLARS COUNOISE
About: Eagle Point Ranch planted four acres of Counoise in 2007 using clonal material from Tablas Creek (Which used clonal material from Beaucastel in the Rhone). This organically farmed vineyard rests high (1800 feet) in the Mayacamas in Mendocino. The soils are thin and iron-rich. The grapes were de-stemmed and fermented in five-ton, open-top troniques. The wine then ages in neutral oak barrels for ten months before bottling.
Taste: This wine is turbid ruby with purple highlights. The nose is frisky with aromas of fresh strawberry, mint stems, clove, red cherries, wild rose, red velvet cake, and pink peppercorns. It’s witty and charming with its boyish good looks and do-good attitude. The palate has plenty of freshness backed up by ripe fruits and delicate tannins. It is a proper middleweight. You’ll find further flavours of raspberry jam, red currant, sandalwood, redwood, crushed granite, and dried rose petals.
Pairing: I’m not entirely sure how many times I’ve suggested tacos as a pairing, but here we are again. Chorizo, with its fat and spice, would get along with this fresh, low tannin red. Birria would also make sense, especially with the rich, flavourful, messy jus for dipping.
WINE TWO: CLAIRE NAUDIN MALLON
About: This cuvée comes from Magny lès Villers and Villers la Faye, two sites perfect for Aligoté: shallow topsoil, primarily flat, and plenty of sunshine thanks to their south-east orientation. The grapes are pressed into stainless steel and enamelled tank for fermentation and élevage on fine lees. No batonnage is done during the short seven-month élevage. The wine is fined with bentonite clay for stability and clarity and then lightly filtered before bottling via gravity. A small amount is Sulphur is added at bottling (usually less than 50ppm total SO2).
Taste: This wine is pale gold in the glass. The nose is subtle and elegant, with aromas of white peach, apricot, lemon zest, sea salt, yoghurt, oyster shells, and apple blossoms. The palate is equally gentle with revitalizing acidity, a modestly creamy texture, and a hint of phenolics, making it finish clean. A gastronomic wine if there ever was one. You’ll find further flavours of white current, pear skins, button mushroom, limestone, and sweet hay.
Pairing: It’s been a while since I’ve had scallops properly cooked in a pan with too much butter. The sweetness of the scallop would get along with the creamy yet zesty and salty nature of Aligoté. On the flip side, it’s also an ideal candidate for grilled cheese and canned cream of mushroom soup lunch. Don’t hate!
WINE THREE: MALOOF WHERE YA PJS AT?
About: Four own-rooted sites were used for this cuvée: No Clos Radio in Tualatin Hills, Oracle Vineyard in Dundee Hills, Logsdon Ridge near Corvalis, and Onesimo’s unnamed site in the Chehalem Mountains. Each site is incredibly unique; abandoned vines are coming back to life, isolated mountain paradises, backyard plantings and so forth. This wine is made from Pinot Gris (80%), most of which was fermented on skins (open top and carbonic for 20 days), but some were directly pressed into barrels. The remainder is direct pressed Riesling. The finished wine was bottled unfined, unfiltered, and with 22ppm of SO2. Nine hundred five cases were produced.
Taste: This wine is pinky-copper-orange in the glass. It wants to play! Like a mewing kitten, ready for adventure, unafraid, chasing shadows and sunbeams. You’ll find joyous aromas of pink grapefruit, iced tea, persimmon, white pepper, rambutan, mandarin, and grilled peach. The palate is delicate but with tonic-like tannins, precocious acidity, and just enough weight. You’ll find further flavours of gentian, nectarine, pollen, angostura, and blood orange.
Pairing: In true Pacific Northwest spirit, I’d suggest salmon in all its forms. You could opt for a gently cured salmon served with crème fraiche, lemon, capers, and rye crackers. Or perhaps you’ll want to grill it over the coals with charred carrots. Or maybe you’re into Japanese hand-cones, filled with chunks of raw salmon and seasoned with slightly sweetened soy sauce. Or maybe you’ll want to go for a salmon burger topped with spicy mustard greens, maple mustard, and some thinly sliced radishes. Regardless, you’re going to have a great time.