NOVEMBER 2021 FEATURED WINES
WINE ONE: MILAN NESTAREC FORKS & KNIVES RED
About: This release is a blend of Pinot Noir, Blaufrankisch, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc. Milan opted for carbonic maceration to retain as much fruit as possible, emulating the 2018 vintage he absolutely adored. After a modest élevage, the wine is bottled unfined, unfiltered, and without SO2. 10% ABV
Taste: This wine is medium ruby in the glass - surprisingly intense for a light-bodied wine. The nose is immediately earth derived: tomato leaf, black currant leaf, raspberry, red plums, potting soil, dried porcini, and birch bark. I can’t help but picture gnomes drinking this magical elixir in expansive tunnels deep beneath our front lawns. It is uplifting yet grounding. It has tangy acidity, a noticeable pinch of tannins to add structure but is lightweight, fleet. You’ll find further flavours of black trumpet mushroom, slate, blackberry, good weed, red currant, and hibiscus.
Pairing: This wine is called Forks & Knives because it goes incredibly well with food - its ultimate goal is to end up on your table. I’m immediately thinking about wood ear mushrooms with their squeaky texture and umami. Or with garlicky snails. Sekaná is the local version of meatloaf. It’s aromatic thanks to the inclusion of herbs and spices and typically has hard-boiled eggs at the centre. This rustic dish (served with potatoes and gravy) would also be a stellar pairing. I’m calling dibs on a crispy edge piece.
WINE TWO: KAMARA SHADOW PLAY RED
About: Planted in 2009, this half-hectare plot features Xinomavro, Greece’s quintessential red grape. Known for extremely high acid and muscular tannins, only the best sites can get this variety fully ripe. The grapes were destemmed and fermented in open-top tank. The wine is then pressed off into barrel for a yearlong élevage. 5,65 g/l TA, pH 3.73
Taste: This wine is deep ruby in the glass. The nose is opulent and physical, with aromas of black plum, olive tapenade, sweet tobacco, dried cherries, gunpowder, leather, vanilla, and fresh violets. The palate is equally impressive with gregarious intensity, warm, velvety tannins, gentle acidity, and a round texture. Despite this grape’s reputation as a bruiser, this rendition is broad but not taxing. You’ll find further flavours of dried rose, black cardamon, red plums, liquorice, figs, and palo santo.
Pairing: Apáki is a Cretan dish made by curing and smoking pork loin. Aromatic herbs like oregano and marjoram add an earthiness to the sweet smoke and tang from vinegar. Kokoretsi is a dish typically served around easter but would be fabulous with this wine. It focuses on lamb offal (heart, lungs, kidneys, etc.) wrapped in caul fat. Think of a giant umami sausage grilled on a skewer, juicy, tender, and crispy on the outside. If you’d like something more familiar, Kreatopita is a fantastic take on a meat pie, including all the phyllo pastry you can handle.
WINE THREE: BRAND BROS WILDER SATZ
About: This cuvée features grapes from several vineyards around their hometown. Each variety was treated differently to best capture its character. Pinot Blanc (24%), Sylvaner (7%), and Chardonnay (12%) undergo a short pre-fermentation maceration after crushing. Müller Thurgau (21%) and Pinot Gris (6%) experience an even longer pre-fermentation maceration, up to two days. Riesling (12%) was direct pressed, and Kerner (8%) was macerated with Riesling juice. After fermentation and a short élevage, the wine is bottled unfined and unfiltered without sulphur.
Taste: This wine is medium hazy lemon in the glass. The nose is joyous and expressive with aromas of homemade lemonade, lemon meringue pie, lemon verbena, pear flesh, white tea, and pine nuts. The palate is equally verbose. Electric acidity cuts through this wine’s fluffy texture, making it equal parts satiating and refreshing. The mineral finish implies electrolytes, almost saline. You’ll find further flavours of grapefruit pith, sweet grass, young pineapple, river stones, and kombu.
Pairing: This wine is wildly versatile. It fits in with nearly every meal but really shines as an aperitif. Here’s a completely random list of things I think would go perfectly: tuna crudo, miso soup, spring rolls, kathi rolls, karaage, or a Costco shrimp ring. How’s that for a spread!