MEINKLANG

We drive up to Meinklang’s gorgeous little winery with throbbing heads and bleary eyes. It is nestled into the back streets of a small town in Burgenland. The esthetic is half Austrian efficiency, half Japanese wabi-sabi. Nikolas approaches us, beaming. We jump in his car and head towards their farm.

Cheerfully mooing cows greet us; many calves were just born, opening their eyes for the first time. Our hangovers make us equally leery of the light, yet we’re eager to learn and see their incredible operation. Nikolas tells us about their cattle breeding regime and how essential animal husbandry is to biodynamic farming. Their ultimate goal is to produce high-quality wines while minimally interfering with nature. They raise pigs, chickens and goats as well – none of which are killed for meat – to add to the biodiversity and energy of their farm. This is where Austrians come to learn Demeter level biodynamic practices.

We then head out into the vineyards. Dozens of small blocks are scattered around the region, interspersed with grazing land, orchards, waterways, and wildland; this is anything but a monoculture. Between the rows, you’ll find ancient grains improving soil structure and returning nutrients to the earth. The odd fruit tree can be found between the rows, providing habitat for predatory birds and other beneficial species. One of their vineyards goes completely unpruned, permitted to find balance independently. These unruly vines seem to be the healthiest and least affected by the frost that ravaged the region only a week earlier. 

Back at the winery, we see the customary selection of Stockinger barrels and foudres, many of which are decades old. The space is spotless and smells clean yet alive. At the far end of the cellar, we enter a chamber with a loose stone floor and arched ceiling. I’m not one for ‘energies’ and unexplained feelings, but the acoustics in that room makes you feel incredibly grounded and calm. This is where their biodynamic preparations live. A large wooden box contains fermenting cow manure, stinging nettles, chamomile, horsetail, and other vineyard supplements, all of which smell incredible and invigorating.

After re-tasting the wines, it is obvious how each of these decisions affects the quality and style of the final product. Meinklang offers incredible quality for a modest price. The wines are accessible yet inspiring, and we are proud to call them our friends.