MAY 2021 FEATURED PREMIUM WINES
WINE ONE: DIRTY & ROWDY SKIN & CONCRETE SEMILLON
About: This cuvée is a celebration of the uniqueness and beauty of Semillon, one of California’s unsung heroes. The grapes were harvested relatively early at roughly 18-20 Brix. 70% of the grapes were destemmed and fermented on skins for 24 days. 10% was fermented as whole clusters for 15 days before being pressed off. The remainder was direct pressed to concrete egg. It was eventually bottled, unfined, and unfiltered. Two hundred cases made.
Taste: This wine is medium green-gold in the glass. The nose is stoic and refined with delicate aromas of white peach, pear skins, button mushroom, candied lemon, kombu, sunflower butter, fresh garbanzo beans, and wool. The palate is precise, radiating from a central point, micro-dosing sunshine. The texture is soft, like well-worn linen sheets. It has a refreshing acidity that hums. You’ll find further flavours of tulip, breadfruit, cashew, hominy, white tea, and honeysuckle. Transcendent!
Pairing: One of my favourite ingredients is fresh green chickpeas (garbanzo beans). I’d sit on the deck, shucking all afternoon in the sunshine, anticipating a delicious snack. I quickly crush them in a mortar with some garlic and olive oil, toss them in a hot cast iron for a couple of minutes, and put the delicious combination on fresh ricotta. Grilled sourdough is the only utensil you’ll need.
WINE TWO: KAMARA STALISMA
About: This wine is made from Malagousia (80%) and Xinomavro (20%). The grapes are both direct pressed into tank for separate fermentations. After fermentation, the wines are blended for a three-month élevage in stainless steel on fine lees. The wine is bottled unfined, unfiltered, and with minimal Sulphur.
Taste: This wine is medium gold in the glass. The nose is surreal, transporting you to a Dalí-inspired tropical dreamscape filled with orange blossom, jasmine, guava, honeysuckle, meyer lemon, peach juice, beechwood, and creamsicle. The palate is rich and full-flavoured with just a hint of tannin. It retains its freshness despite the weight. You’ll find further flavours of yellow plum, passionfruit, white strawberry, lilies, sesame seed, dried pineapple, and sassafras. What a trip!
Pairing: The island of Lemnos is famous for its savoury rendition of pancakes served with fresh mint and a mild goat/sheep cheese called kalathaki. Tonos Alonnisou is made by cooking yellowfin tuna in seawater before putting it in jars with olive oil. Served on its own as a light afternoon snack, it would shine with a cool glass of this wine - especially on a picnic blanket in the park.
WINE THREE: LES LUNES CABERNET SAUVIGNON / MERLOT
About: These two adjacent sites are located in Carneros. The Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot planted on wright loam soils are some of the oldest vines in the appellation. Cool temperatures and cool soils contribute to ripening at relatively low levels of sugar. They took over farming this vineyard five years ago and have converted it to organics. Their spraying regime follows the moon cycles. The grapes were destemmed and then fermented in open-top vats. Gentle punch-downs once per day for two weeks led to modest extraction. The wine was then aged in neutral Bordeaux barrels for two years. A small amount of Sulphur was added once per year to keep the wine precise and fresh. The final product was bottled by gravity without added SO2.
Taste: This wine is medium ruby in the glass. The nose immediately reminds me of classic Bordeaux with aromas of black plum, graphite, dried violets, leather, cigar box, wild raspberries, cherry lozenge, and cedar. The palate is equally traditional, with stern tannins that start chiselled and finish like velvet. The acidity is refreshing but not the dominant feature here. Despite its relatively low alcohol, it’s rich and supple. You’ll find further flavours of black truffle, clove, forest floor, pomegranate, water mint, and strawberry juice.
Pairing: Tiny Naylor most likely invented the Patty Melt in California in the late 1940s. Inspired by the tuna melt, this sandwich features a hamburger patty, cheese, and onions, served between two pieces of rye bread. For any true connoisseur, Thousand Island Dressing is the essential condiment. Although traditionalists would argue generic swiss cheese will suffice, I’d substitute Monterey Jack, another Californian culinary invention, for its subtle buttery flavour.
LINK TO PODCAST: MP3 | SPOTIFY (Featuring Kevin Schorath)